Single Layer Pocket

These instructions are for a single layer side seam pocket. You only need to cut out two pocket pieces. If using a woven fabric, serge or zigzag around all pocket edges except the edge with the opening marks.

Method one, pocket opening exactly on the seam

Cut four long strips of interfacing 1" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length. Do the following for each pocket.

Fuse this to the wrong side of the pocket opening location on front and back.

Stitch the pocket right sides together (RST) to the back, matching the pocket opening dots or notches, but with a narrower seam allowance. Press the pocket away from the back bodice.

Stitch the side seam but with longest stitches (aka basting stitches) at the pocket opening and backstitching at both ends of the opening. Press the seam open and topstitch the front around the pocket open location.

Press the pocket towards the front. Pin and stitch around the pocket. I would use a medium zigzag stitch when topstitching on knits.

Remember to remove the basting stitches!

Also see this on my blog.

Method two, pocket opening inset

This picture represents the facing. The blue line is where the facing is along the edge of the front. The dotted line is the stitching. Read on...

Cut two facings, long strips of fabric 2" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length.

Cut two long strips of interfacing 2" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length.

Do the following for each pocket.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing.

Pin the facing to the front of the garment RST centered over the pocket opening. Stitch the top of the pocket opening from the fabric edge to 1” in, turn and stitch to the other end of the pocket opening, then turn and stitch towards the fabric edge, forming a flat U shape.

Inside the U-shaped stitching, cut diagonally into both corners, but not beyond the stitching.

Turn the facing to the wrong side of the front. Press and topstitch around the opening.

Place the right side of the pocket on the wrong side of the front, matching the pocket opening dots or notches. Pin and stitch around the pocket. I would use a medium zigzag stitch when topstitching on knits.

Here's where I used a curved opening.

I hope this helps.