Single Layer Pocket

These instructions are for a single layer side seam pocket. You only need to cut out two pocket pieces. If using a woven fabric, serge or zigzag around all pocket edges except the edge with the opening marks.

Method one, pocket opening exactly on the seam

Cut four long strips of interfacing 1" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length. Do the following for each pocket.

Fuse this to the wrong side of the pocket opening location on front and back.

Stitch the pocket right sides together (RST) to the back, matching the pocket opening dots or notches, but with a narrower seam allowance. Press the pocket away from the back bodice.

Stitch the side seam but with longest stitches (aka basting stitches) at the pocket opening and backstitching at both ends of the opening. Press the seam open and topstitch the front around the pocket open location.

Press the pocket towards the front. Pin and stitch around the pocket. I would use a medium zigzag stitch when topstitching on knits.

Remember to remove the basting stitches!

Also see this on my blog.

Method two, pocket opening inset

This picture represents the facing. The blue line is where the facing is along the edge of the front. The dotted line is the stitching. Read on...

Cut two facings, long strips of fabric 2" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length.

Cut two long strips of interfacing 2" wide and 2” longer than the pocket opening, with the less stretchy direction along the length.

Do the following for each pocket.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing.

Pin the facing to the front of the garment RST centered over the pocket opening. Stitch the top of the pocket opening from the fabric edge to 1” in, turn and stitch to the other end of the pocket opening, then turn and stitch towards the fabric edge, forming a flat U shape.

Inside the U-shaped stitching, cut diagonally into both corners, but not beyond the stitching.

Turn the facing to the wrong side of the front. Press and topstitch around the opening.

Place the right side of the pocket on the wrong side of the front, matching the pocket opening dots or notches. Pin and stitch around the pocket. I would use a medium zigzag stitch when topstitching on knits.

Here's where I used a curved opening.

I hope this helps.

Love Notions Classic Tee

I have owned this pattern for five years, and it has become a staple - in my mom's wardrobe!

My first one was a pink-striped poly-spandex from FabricmaniaBoutique on Etsy, with short sleeves for me.

My second one was coordinating blue DBP fabrics from JoAnn's with long sleeves for my mom.

My third and fourth were white jet fabric from Walmart bundles with short sleeves for my mom. I like to use variegated thread in the loopers of my coverstitch machine.

My fifth one was a mod flower print poly-lycra (possibly from JoAnn) with long sleeves for me.

My sixth one was a feather print poly-lycra (possibly from JoAnn) with long sleeves for me.

My seventh and eighth were cotton-lycra and DBP with short sleeves for my mom.

You can find the pattern here.

I will be sure to make this again, some other day!

Pocket Tissue Holder

 Here's a fun and easy project, which is great for using up woven scraps.

I made two a while ago and sent at least one to my mom.

You can see that I overlapped the ends of the opening.

I got the instructions here.

Enjoy!

Cutting out Different Ways

This post is to show different ways of cutting out patterns that are placed on fold for both front and back. Currently, this post is mostly pictures with minimal instructions, but will be updated later. All the pictures are small samples just to show the ideas.

These first pictures show ways to cut out a garment when the print is directional, ie, has a one-way pattern.

If both pieces take up less than the total folded width, the fabric can be folded from both sides and the pattern placed on both folds.

If a flare is wanted for the same situation, a long ruler can be used to add the flare if the fabric is enough.

If a wider flare is desired and there is enough fabric, the pattern pieces can be placed along the same fold and flared with a long ruler.

This set of pictures shows ways to cut out a garment when the print is not directional.

Whether or not the fabric is wide enough for both pieces to fit across from each other, this is the method I use.

One side of the fabric is folded just enough to accommodate one pattern piece, whether it's flared or not.

The other side of the fabric is also folded just enough to fit the other pattern piece. The armscyes are placed as close to each other as possible.

Here is an example with a flare added.

Here is what it looks like after cutting out.

Here is an example of adding more flare.

I will eventually add more information - later!

Rocky Tee by 5 out of 4 Pattern Company

I found this stretchy (89% polyester, 11% spandex) fabric at Walmart and just knew it had to be good for something. When I took it home, hubby said it would make a great sleep shirt.

As it turned out, I had just the pattern for it here, but I had to straighten the sides and adjust the length.

I assembled it with my serger and used zigzag stitching for the hems.

Yes, I attached the sleeves in a method called "on the flat."

Hubby liked it so much that he offered to pose.

I liked it so much that I made the same size for me, but shorter. However, it's in his rotation since I made another one closer to my size (scroll down to see mine).

After a while, I traced this pattern in a smaller size to make a labor-and-delivery gown for a coworker. I added loops at the side seams so she could adjust the unstructured belt I made for it.

I split the front with a Vee shape and added a band before hemming (because I forgot to hem the band first.

Except for closing the turned band, it was made entirely on my serger, including the bands that I added to the sleeves. Here's how it turned out.

At some point, I bought a dark blue shirt in hubby's size which he thought might make a good sleeveless, either casual or for sleeping. I placed the sleeveless template over this shirt and added bands with the gray fabric.

It turned out great, but he eventually disliked the blue fabric and it was donated away.

He wanted more sleep shirts, so I ordered some super-soft bamboo lycra from Sincerely Rylee Fabrics and made him another sleep shirt in a longer length.

I made him another one with the gray fabric, but sleeveless. He's wearing it now!

I made one to fit me in a double-brushed poly (DBP), but I don't recall where I bought it. I had recently gotten a coverstitch machine, so I hemmed the sleeves before I attached them.

Using a fabric that I found in the Walmart bundles section, I made a nightshirt for a friend. She seems to love it, but is camera-shy.

I hope you've enjoyed this tour through my projects.

Pajama Pants by 5 out of 4 Pattern Company

 I use this pattern for my husband because the front waist dips down, just like his!

The first pair I made from this pattern was a pair of shorts with mystery knit fabric from Walmart.

My master patterns have many sizes on them, and I have them printed by an online pattern printing service. I currently use The Plotted Pattern.

The pattern pieces to fit him were so big that I asked him to help trace the pattern.

I then cut out the pattern pieces and put away the master.

These shorts go just below his knees.

Here is the first layout to be cut. It takes up quite a bit of the table!

I added pockets to these shorts. Here is a link to a project which shows how I install pockets.

And here is hubby happily wearing his new shorts.

Now, on to the longer versions.

I added a fly opening to the blue poplin PJs. I winged it, of course. I do not currently have a tutorial to show how to finish this during assembly.

This version does not have pockets, so I stitched the side seams first. By the way, my cutting table is 40" x 72" - wowza!

I trimmed the hem evenly and used my new BabyLock Euphoria coverstitch machine.

After that I sewed the crotch seams, the inseams, and then made the elastic waist. He liked this so much that he put them on and promptly got back to reading.

That's not enough? Almost immediately after the blue poplin ones, I made him some gray and white plaid flannel ones. Since he did not want pockets, I decided to overlap the straight side edges of the pattern pieces to eliminate the side seams.

When cut out, it almost looked like it was hiding on the table.

I added a very basic, rectangular fly at a doubled width, so I had to fold back the fly pieces for more structure.

He was more than happy to pose for me.

He helped me to pick out the most recent fabric from Hobby Lobby.

These were made about the same way as the blue poplin PJs, with side seams, no pockets, and added fly.

I hope you have enjoyed my TED Talk. 😍

Daniel Knit Shorts by 5 out of 4 Pattern Company

I use this pattern for my knit shorts because the waistline is fairly straight, unlike some pants patterns that have the waistline much lower in the front than in the back.

I have adapted a pocket method I learned from Stretch n Sew patterns. I made a template for the pocket opening shape by cutting out the side of a dollar-store placemat:

I placed a facing piece, right sides together, onto the pocket opening location of the side of the front pieces, traced the opening shape, stitched the opening shape, trimmed, turned to the inside, and topstitched:

Then I placed the right side of the pocket piece against the wrong side of the front piece at the pocket opening, pinned well, and used a medium zigzag stitch to hold it down:

Only partly shown are the next few steps of my construction method.

I stitched the back pieces to the front pieces at the side seams.

I hemmed each assembly.

I placed the two assemblies right sides together and sewed the crotch curves at each side.

I placed the back pieces on the bottom, which means folding it a different way, laid the front inseam over the back inseam, and stitched that from hem to hem.

I stitched the elastic into a circle, marked the quarters, and marked halfway between those points. I also marked the top edge of the shorts in the same way. I matched those up with the elastic on the wrong side of the shorts, and pinned them together:

I attached the elastic to the shorts with a large zigzag stitch:

I basted on a folded ribbon or tape of a contrasting color to mark the center back:

I turned the elastic to the inside, pinned well, and stitched it down along the lower edge of the elastic with a medium zigzag stitch:

I didn't stop there, though. Because I liked how they fit me, I also made a pajama pants with a double-brushed poly (aka DBP). I made the legs the length and width (at the hem) the way I liked in another pair of PJ pants, and did not add pockets:

Here's a close-up of the cute print. The DBP is very soft:

The pockets, hems, and elastic were constructed with my sewing machine. All other seams were constructed with my serger for a quick and easy project.